![]() Instead of delivering less and less voltage throughout your run, a LiPo will hold a steady voltage for most of your run, then fall off quickly at the end of the charge. ![]() Also contributing to that “feeling of power” (often called “punch”) is the LiPo’s ability to maintain its voltage longer as the pack is depleted. A LiPo battery is lighter than a NiMH of similar voltage and capacity, which helps your model feel more powerful. ![]() LiPo batteries are generally sold as accessories, but there are RTR models that include them. NiMH packs are constructed with cylindrical cells (usually 6-8 of them) like those we’ve been dropping into flashlights and TV remotes for years. Once you start driving, your car goes slower with each passing minute. However, they’re heavier than a LiPo battery of similar voltage and capacity (we’ll get to those terms), and their voltage decreases steadily as the pack is discharged. Nickel-metal packs are rugged, inexpensive, and don’t require much in the way of special care. If you purchased a ready-to-run (RTR) model with an included battery, chances are it’s a NiMH. The chemistry-class names refer to the essential materials within the battery that react to store and release energy as electricity, and each has its pros and cons. There are two essential types of batteries used to power electric models: Nickel-Metal Hydride (NiMH) and Lithium Polymer (LiPo). Here’s everything you really need to know… As with so many aspects of our amazing hobby/sport, you can go super-deep into battery tech if it really interests you - but it’s hardly a requirement for making an informed battery choice and understanding the types of batteries we use in radio control. Batteries make everything go in RC, even in nitro-powered models - sure, the engine burns fuel, but you aren’t going anywhere without a battery on board to power the receiver and servos.
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